Pilot, burner, flue and gas control
Gas Water Heater Repair in Minneapolis, MN
A pilot that will not stay lit, a burner that roars and quits, or a tank that just went cold.
Walk into most basements in Minneapolis and St. Paul and you will find a gas tank standing near the furnace, venting into the same chimney or flue. CenterPoint Energy supplies gas on the Minneapolis side. Xcel Energy supplies it in St. Paul. Either way, the heater itself belongs to the homeowner, and so does the repair.
Gas water heaters fail in a short list of ways. The pilot goes out, the burner will not light, the control valve stops working, or exhaust has trouble getting up the flue. The first three are part swaps. The last one is a safety issue.
When the pilot on a Minneapolis water heater will not stay lit
On a standard atmospheric tank the pilot heats a thermocouple, a small rod that makes a tiny voltage. The gas control reads that voltage and keeps the gas valve open. A healthy thermocouple puts out roughly 25 to 35 millivolts. Below that, the control drops out and the pilot goes dark.
A worn or dirty thermocouple is the most common cause and the cheapest repair. A pilot tube partly blocked with dust or a spider web gives a weak, yellow flame that does not heat the thermocouple enough. Both are quick fixes.
Newer gas water heaters have a sealed burner chamber with a flame arrestor screen on the bottom. Basement lint and dust clog that screen, the burner starves for air and a sensor shuts it down. Tanks near a laundry area see this more. Cleaning the screen is a service job because the burner chamber has to come apart.
If the pilot lights fine and goes out only when the main burner comes on, the problem is often draft or combustion air. That points to the next section.
Draft, old Minneapolis chimneys and carbon monoxide
An atmospheric gas tank depends on warm exhaust rising up the flue by itself. In older city houses the water heater vent pipe usually ties into the furnace chimney. Upgrade that furnace to a sidewall-vented high-efficiency unit and the water heater ends up alone in a masonry flue that is oversized and cold. Exhaust cools, condenses and may not draft well.
Signs of trouble include rust or white crust on the draft hood, a flickering pilot when a bath fan or dryer runs, soot around the burner opening and moisture dripping back down the vent. Any of these needs a look soon.
If you ever see flame rolling out of the burner door, smell exhaust, or a carbon monoxide alarm sounds, get everyone out of the house and call from outside. Carbon monoxide has no smell, so the alarm counts even if nothing seems wrong.
The fix depends on the house. Options include a chimney liner sized for the water heater, a power vent tank that pushes exhaust out the side wall, or more combustion air in a tight utility room.
Gas control valves and burners
The gas control is the box on the front of the water heater with the temperature dial. When it fails, the burner may not light, may not shut off, or may cycle oddly. Replacing one costs more than a thermocouple, and on an older tank it is worth asking whether the money should go toward a new heater instead.
- A burner that lights with a whoosh or a bang usually has a dirty burner or low gas pressure.
- A lazy yellow flame means poor combustion. Have it checked, since that is when carbon monoxide climbs.
- A water heater that heats slowly but fully may just be full of sediment. Flushing is cheaper than parts.
- Power vent tanks add a fan, a pressure switch and a plug. A tripped outlet or a blocked side wall vent will shut one down.
Do not take the burner apart or push a gas control past its stop. If the control has a reset or a pilot that keeps going out, that is the heater telling you something.
What you can safely check first
Look at the label on the water heater for the brand, model and the relighting steps. Note how old the tank is. Then check three things without opening anything.
- Is the gas cock on the supply pipe turned in line with the pipe? A handle across the pipe means the gas is off.
- Are other gas appliances working? If the range and furnace are dead too, the problem is the gas supply, and the gas utility needs to know.
- Is there a smell near the heater, or soot near the top? If so, stop there, leave the house and call from outside.
If the pilot lights and holds for a while before dropping out, note how long it lasted. That one detail helps a plumber decide between a thermocouple and a draft problem before the visit.
What happens on the call
Tell the person who answers the brand, the rough age and what the heater does when you try to light it. The call goes to an independent plumbing company that works gas appliances in your area. They check the pilot assembly, draft and gas pressure before quoting.
If the tank is past twelve years or the bottom is wet, the honest answer may be replacement. A plumber can lay out both paths, and typical ranges for each sit on the front page, which covers water heater repair across the Twin Cities. At the door, ask to see the license and insurance papers, then get the quote written down.
Common questions: gas repair
Can I relight the pilot myself?
Many tanks have relight instructions on the label, and following them is fine. Should it go dark again by the next day, leave it off and get the thermocouple and the venting looked at.
Why does my pilot go out when the dryer runs?
A dryer, bath fan or range hood pulls air out of the house. In a tight basement that can pull air down the water heater flue and snuff the pilot or spill exhaust. That needs a combustion air or venting fix.
Who supplies gas in my area?
CenterPoint Energy serves Minneapolis and Xcel Energy serves St. Paul. Suburbs vary, so check your gas bill. Call the gas utility from outside the house if you smell gas.
Is a power vent tank better for an old chimney?
It can be. A power vent tank sends exhaust out the side wall with a fan, so it does not depend on the chimney. It needs an outlet nearby and a clear spot outside for the vent.